Questions to ask denim manufacturers
Choosing the right denim manufacturer can make or break your jeans line. Wash minimums, fabric sourcing, and lead times vary widely. This guide lists the questions to ask before you commit, so you can compare answers across suppliers and avoid surprises.
MOQ and minimums
- What is your minimum order quantity per style and per wash? — Denim MOQs often differ by wash (raw vs. washed) and style. Listen for whether the number is per colour, per wash, or total across styles. Some factories have separate minimums for the cut-and-sew and for the wash house.
- Do your minimums change if I supply my own fabric? — Supplying your own fabric can sometimes lower the cut minimum but not always—wash and finish minimums may still apply. Get a clear split: cutting minimum vs. washing minimum.
- What is the minimum for a new wash or finish development? — New washes (e.g. enzyme + stone + softening) often have higher minimums or sample fees. Ask if they have standard washes at lower MOQ and what triggers a development minimum.
- Can I combine multiple styles in one order to meet a minimum? — Some factories allow mixed styles to hit one overall minimum; others require per-style minimums. Clarify so you can plan your range and costs.
- Do you offer smaller runs for sampling before bulk? — Sample runs (e.g. 20–50 pieces) help you lock fit and wash before committing. Not all denim factories offer them; if they do, ask lead time and cost.
Lead times and capacity
- What is your typical lead time from order confirmation to delivery? — Denim lead times are usually longer than basic jersey because of washing and finishing. Expect 8–16 weeks for many European suppliers; get a breakdown (fabric, cut, wash, pack).
- Do you source fabric, and how does that affect the timeline? — If the factory sources denim, mill lead times can add 4–8 weeks. If you supply fabric, ask their cut-and-sew and wash lead times only.
- How far in advance do I need to book capacity for a specific delivery date? — Peak seasons fill up; booking 2–3 months ahead is common. Ask when they need confirmation to hit your target delivery.
Quality and compliance
- What quality checks do you do in-house (e.g. wash consistency, measurements)? — Listen for pre-wash and post-wash checks, measurement reports, and whether they do inline or final inspection. Denim wash consistency is critical.
- Do you work with recycled or organic denim, and what certifications do you have? — If sustainability matters, ask for GOTS, GRS, or other relevant certs and whether they can provide chain-of-custody documentation.
- What happens if wash or quality does not meet spec? — Clarify re-wash or remake policy and who bears the cost. Get it in writing before production.
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